How to Sew Stretch Fabric
When it comes to sewing, stretch fabrics can be tricky. Whether you’re creating a chic blouse or making a costume with unique materials, understanding how to sew stretch fabric is essential for success. While stretchy fabrics may seem daunting at first glance, learning specific tips and techniques will help you master the intricate art of sewing with this type of fabric.
This blog post will provide helpful information so that regardless if you’re new to sewing or an experienced seamstress, you’ll gain confidence in working with stretch fabrics like spandex, jersey knit and lycra blends!
Can I Sew Stretchy Fabric with a Sewing Machine?
Yes, you can sew stretchy fabric with a sewing machine. Stretch fabrics are made from materials like spandex, lycra, or elastane and they come in various weights and textures. Although there are special machines designed for working with stretchy fabrics, most standard home sewing machines can be used to sew them as well.
When it comes to actually sewing the fabric, however, there are a few things to keep in mind. One of the biggest challenges when working with stretch fabrics is controlling the tension on your machine.
Too much tension can cause stitches to break when the fabric is stretched or pulled, while too little tension will result in uneven stitching that won’t hold up over time. To ensure even stitches and consistent tension, it’s important to use the right type of foot for your machine and adjust the tension settings as needed before beginning.
In addition to adjusting your sewing machine’s tension settings, you’ll also want to use a zigzag stitch whenever possible when sewing stretch fabric. A straight stitch can cause unnecessary stretching and make it harder to achieve even stitches. Instead, opt for a wide zigzag stitch that will give the fabric some extra flexibility while still providing enough stability for seams.
10 Methods How to Sew Stretch Fabric
1. Use a Serger or an Overlock Machine
If you have access to a serger or an overlock machine, sewing stretch fabric is a breeze. These machines are specifically designed to sew stretchy fabric, and they can do it quickly and easily.
Just be sure to use the correct needle and thread for your fabric – usually a ballpoint needle and polyester thread – and you’ll be good to go. While a regular sewing machine will work in a pinch, it may struggle with the elasticity of the fabric which could lead to skipped stitches or tears.
2. Use a Walking Foot
If you don’t have a serger or an overlock machine, you can still sew stretch fabric using a regular sewing machine – you just need to use a walking foot. A walking foot helps to feed the fabric evenly through the machine, which is essential when sewing stretchy fabric.
Without a walking foot, it’s very easy for the fabric to get bunched up or puckered. Make sure you lower the stitch length to a smaller setting. This will help keep the fabric from stretching out when it’s finished.
3. Use the Right Needle and Thread
As we mentioned above, it’s important to use the right needle and thread when sewing stretch fabric. A ballpoint needle is designed to penetrate the fabric without damaging the fibers, while polyester thread is strong enough to stand up to repeated stretching. Make sure to adjust your machine’s tension accordingly, as stretch fabric requires a looser tension than regular woven fabrics.
It can also be helpful to use a walking foot attachment, which will help the fabric feed evenly through the machine. Finally, take your time and don’t pull the fabric through the machine too quickly, as this can cause it to bunch up and stretch out of shape.
4. Use a Stretch Stitch
Most sewing machines have a few different stitch settings that can be used for stretch fabric. The best one to use is usually the “lightning bolt” or “zigzag” stitch, as these stitches will allow the fabric to stretch without breaking the threads. You can also use a “stretch stitch” setting if your machine has one.
This type of stitch is designed specifically for stretch fabrics and will provide extra flexibility when sewing. Whichever stitch you choose, make sure to use a slightly longer stitch length than usual so that the fabric can better accommodate the stretch as you sew. When in doubt, test out a few stitches on scrap fabric before tackling your project.
5. Sew Slowly and Carefully
When sewing stretch fabric, it’s important to take your time and sew slowly and carefully. This will help to ensure that your stitches are even and that the fabric doesn’t get bunched up or puckered. Make sure your needle stays in the fabric and that you don’t pull on it as you sew.
Also, use a longer stitch length when sewing stretch fabric and avoid backstitching unless absolutely necessary. This will help to keep your stitching flexible so it can move with the fabric.
6. Test Your Stitches on Scrap Fabric First
Before sewing your final garment, it’s always a good idea to test your stitches on scrap fabric first. This will help you make sure that you have the right settings for your machine and that your stitches look good before moving on to your final project.
To do this, select a scrap of stretch fabric that is similar to the one you’ll be using in your garment. Thread your machine and make a few stitches in the fabric. If you’re pleased with the results, you can start sewing your final garment.
7. Finish Your Seams with a Serger or an Overlock Machine
If you have access to a serger or an overlock machine, finishing your seams with one of these machines is always a good idea. These machines will give your seams a professional finish and help them withstand repeated stretching better than if they were finished with a regular zigzag stitch.
First, set up your machine for a three-thread overlock. Trim any excess fabric from the seam allowance with scissors and then use the serger to neaten the edges of the seam allowance and keep it from fraying.
8. Finish Your Seams with Clear Elastic Tape
If you don’t have access to a serger or an overlock machine, another option for finishing your seams is clear elastic tape. This tape is applied over the seam allowance and helps to keep the seam from stretching out of shape. It also gives the seam a bit of extra strength, which can be helpful when sewing stretchy fabrics.
To apply the tape, lay the seam allowance flat and position the tape over it. Then use an iron to heat up the tape, which will fuse it to the fabric. You may need to adjust the heat setting on your iron depending on the type of fabric you’re using.
9. Use Interfacing Sparingly
Interfacing can be helpful when working with stretch fabrics, but it should be used sparingly as too much interfacing can make the garment feel stiffer and less comfortable to wear. only use interfacing on areas where you really need it, such as on collars, waistbands, or buttonholes.
Be sure to use interfacing that is designed for stretch fabrics, as regular interfacing can affect the flexibility of your garment. Also, be sure to pre-wash the interfacing before applying it to your garment.
Some Common Mistakes When Sewing Strech Fabrics
1. Using A Regular Needle
Regular needles can cause skipped stitches and broken threads when sewing stretch fabrics. It’s important to use a ballpoint needle instead. Ballpoint needles have a rounded tip that will slide between the fibers of the fabric and create stitches that are much less likely to break or skip during wear.
2. Streching The Fabric
It’s tempting to stretch the fabric while you’re sewing it because it makes it easier to work with. However, when you stretch the fabric while sewing it can cause puckering and distortion in the finished garment. Always keep your fabric flat and taut as you sew for the best results.
3. Skipping Stay Stitching
Stay stitching is an important step when sewing stretch fabrics since it helps maintain its shape during construction. Stay stitching should be done on curved areas such as necklines or armholes to prevent them from stretching out of shape.
4. Not Using The Right Stitch Length
When sewing stretch fabrics, it’s important to use the correct stitch length for optimal results. Longer stitches can cause the seams to pull apart when stretched, while shorter stitches can cause the fabric to pucker.
Conclusion
Sewing with stretch fabric opens up a world of creative possibilities and allows you to create not just clothes but also accessories that are stylish and comfortable. Your finished projects will be sure to turn heads, demonstrate your craftsmanship, and inspire others. Not only that, but you’ll also have the confidence knowing that the pieces of clothing and accessories you make yourself fit perfectly!
You don’t need experience with sewing to venture into the world of stretch fabric sewing; just some patience and the right techniques can help you maximize all your projects! We hope this article has shown you how to sew stretch fabric while providing helpful tips on how to work smarter in order to optimize all your creations.
Nancy Behan
Nancy is an embroidery artist, fashion blogger and a full time editor at DIY quickly. Nancy edits the fashion section on DIY quickly, focusing on the embroidery and cross stitch articles, alongside with fabric and other costume design elements. She graduated from the University of Michigan with a Bachelor of Arts in Art History. She loves to work on her own projects, read books and watch romantic movies in her spare time.
